The first snow

We saw our first flakes last night and my Ukrainian roomie, Liza, just shook her head as I ran outside to stand in them. This morning we woke to a few scattered patches of white in the park across the street, but by the time I walked home from Alchemia this evening the sidewalks and cars were covered. The snow was three inches thick and utterly silent. I realized the city had been waiting for snow. The buildings could sleep now. They’d dreamed of this wearily all summer, crumbling bricks exposed to the sun. Now they could dwell in silence again, sleepy in their white hats. And we’ll watch as they doze and not slam doors, we'll speak a little more quietly huddled around the radiators.
The snow first started falling hard when Monika and I were at Massolit, the English bookstore, working in the cafe. I had resolved not to go home until I'd produced a rough draft of my paper on the comparative roles of women in the theology and shaping of Jewish and Christian medieval mysticism (a mouthful, right? I can never resist the chance to write about Hildegard of Bingen, she's my girl). There was a girl from Texas studying in the corner. It was good to be with other Americans when the snow began, because no one here quite gets American snow-joy. Poor Moni got caught in the worst of the snow walking home and I stole some of her pictures here, she always has her camera out in Massolit too. This is the main square, in the background you can see the giant creche being built. The Christmas market opens in the main square next week and I smile every time I see the stalls. Almost time to buy presents!
By the time I came home, the tree was up in the main square and already weighed down with snow. Krakow's architecture makes even more sense now, this is a city meant for snow. Wawel Castle was the most beautiful I'd ever seen it as I walked past in the dark on my way home from Kazimierz and it loomed down from Wawel Hill. I spent the afternoon in Alchemia, the best jazz bar in Krakow by night, and the darkest and smokiest cafe by day. Being in the Jewish quarter and writing by proper candlelight helped me get eight pages out before I gave in and just watched people and lingered over my pot of tea for another hour.
Time for kolacje, supper, or really, more like obiad, because I still haven't gotten the hang of eating the biggest meal midday like a proper Pole. Pasta with tomatoes and eggplant and the lovely kielbasa (named Herman) I picked up at the butcher. And a little wine of course - have to embrace that while I still can!